1. "The headlamps are rubbish, more like candles than headlamps. What can I do?"
A: Experience tells us that most headlight problems are caused by corroded reflectors (or even just dirty lenses). Look at yours carefully, if they're full of water or looking a bit brown at the bottom, then you need to think about replacing them. Unfortunately the original "push-fit" 7-inch units (shared with the original Mini) are no longer available, but a little careful modification to the headlamp pods allows any 7" unit to be fitted. Some people favour Wipac Crystal units, where the mirror does the focussing, while others have gone for LED.
If you think your reflectors are OK, then please try an upgraded lamp, like the Osram Nightbreaker, as a cheap starting point. H4 is the correct fitment. You should also check the connector for corrosion as this has been known to cause problems too. Replacement connectors are readily available and not very expensive.
2. The brakes are rubbish. What can I do?
Firstly, the braking system is a 1970s design. It's adequate for what it was designed to do, but not for modern driving styles which involve stamping on the brakes at the last minute. That said, the calipers are known to corrode a little and prevent the brake pads moving freely, so the first thing to check is that the pads can move freely.
Secondly, the non-return valve in the brake servo sometimes fails. They're easily replaced and a fairly standard part.
3. My ignition amplifier has failed, or I'm getting misfires and idling problems, what can I do?
A: The AB14 ignition amplifier is actually pretty reliable. Over the years we've tested a number of "failed" amps. and found that they were all actually working correctly. Before blaming the AB14, there are a few checks to carry out:
First - check the condition of the wiring from AB14 to coil, particularly the wire ends at the spade connectors. After a few decades of exposure to heat and vibration, you may find that many of the strands have broken, resulting in poor performance. Strip them back and fit new spade connectors and your problems may go away. Also check for corrosion on the AB14 terminals and clean them up if necessary.
Second - try disconnecting the rev. limiter. It sits lower down on the wing, ahead of the AB14 and is a known weak spot. When it starts to fail it can cause non-starting, misfire, poor idling and lack of acceleration. Pulling the plug from it often cures "AB14 problems". It's possible to fit a replacement modern rev. limiter if yours has failed.
Third - the "black wire" from distributor to AB14 also fails due to flexing, heat and vibration. If waggling it allows your car to run normally for a while, but then return to previous bad behaviours, it's probably time to replace it.
Fourth - if all else fails, follow the Lucas diagnostic procedure to figure out which part of the ignition system is misbehaving.
If your AB14 has failed, then a replacement DAB125 (or Intermotor 15210) ignition module is likely to bring it back to life, as long as you get a real one from a reputable supplier.
4. My carburettors have a lot of extra hoses attached to them. What do they do? OR
I'm having problems with idling and carb. balancing - could these extra pipes be the problem?
A: Over the years, Lotus added a lot of extra vacuum pipework as part of an attempt to control emissions.
It's common for perished hoses or failing "vacuum switches" to lead to problems.
The "vacuum switches" are still available as Jeep parts, but a check of the condition and location of all hoses is a good starting point for curing many idling and fuelling problems.
Bryan Barker produced this helpful diagram, of the final arrangement, which shows all the hoses in their original factory colours. Colour is not important, but the end points are. (Earlier cars don't have the carb. "F" pipes, and LC engines don't have the vac. advance on the distributor.)
5. My car won't start, but the battery is fine, what's the matter? - and other electrical issues
Depending on the age of your car the most likely sources of electrical faults are corroded connectors, water in relays and fractures in the wires themselves. Start by checking the relevant connectors carefully and cleaning them up. If they're OK, get the wiring diagram for the year of your car (there are 4 different looms, depending on year - ask nicely through the contact form and we might be able to help) and look for fuses and relays which affect the failed circuit.
For starting problems - if you can't hear the starter solenoid clicking, then the prime suspect is the start drop-out relay which cuts power to all non-essential circuits while the key is in the start position. If the solenoid is clicking, but the starter isn't turning - then you may need a new starter. Replacing the starter is a pretty easy job and can be done in 20 minutes once you've had some practice. Of course, before you swap the starter, you should check that all electrical connections between it and the battery & alternator are good and free from corrosion.
As development of the Excel progressed, more relays were added, and they were grouped together in just a few places around the car. The cluster in the driver's footwell (UK) is particularly prone to accumulating water if your car leaks at all. This results in corrosion inside the relay which eventually breaks the circuit. Most regular drivers carry a couple of spares and know which ones can be swapped around to get the car moving again. Ultimately, though, the best cure for corroding relays is to fix the water leaks...and then replace the relays - and still carry a spare or two, just in case.
6. Do I need an additive or new head to run on unleaded?
No. The Lotus 9xx series engines were designed for unleaded from day 1. They benefit from higher octane (super unleaded) but can run on standard 95 RON (UK) fuel if you retard the ignition timing a little.
7. All Lotus leak - do I need a garage and is it safe to leave an Excel outdoors?
Actually, not all Lotus leak and they were certainly not intended to leak when they were built. If you are getting water inside your Excel then your car has developed a leak which needs to be fixed. See this page for more info.
As long as your car isn't leaking water, it can live outside without too many problems - as long as you use it regularly. Of course, keeping it in a garage or under a good quality cover will help to preserve it - as long as you use it regularly to keep things freed up.
8. How many were built and why is my Excel registered as an Eclat?
Build numbers: Received from Hethel on 17/Sept/2013 (exactly as delivered except for the bracketed figure which breaks out Eclat vs. Eclat Excel numbers for 1982. Post-1982 Eclats are Eclat Excels)
ELITE ECLAT EXCEL
"The last production Eclat was serial number 1143. The first production Eclat Excel was serial number 1149. The cars in-between were engineering/prototype cars, making your car the 2nd. There are no build records for 1144 & 1145. 1146, 1147 & 1148 are recorded as pre-production cars."
Production of the Eclat Excel began in Autumn 1982, immediately after the last Eclat. 1985 saw the introduction of the Excel SE and this is probably when the factory started recording them as Excels rather than Eclat Excels. (see FAQ 9).
As for why Excels are registered as Eclats or Eclat Excels - it was a Lotus ruse to get around type approval requirements. They claimed that the Excel was an evolution of the Eclat and it certainly looks like one, but the mechanical changes were extensive so they're quite different driving experiences.
(thanks to Tony Pechiney for the additional clarification on the 1982 figures).
9. I sometimes see references to "MY" in relation to Excels - what does this mean and how did the model evolve over the years?
"MY" means "model year". As is common in some markets, Lotus made (sometimes small) changes to the Excel throughout its production life. According to Lotus publications, the following were the changes, with starting VIN and number made, for each market:
October 1982 Excel Introduction
VIN 89 D 1148 - Domestic market 254
VIN 89 - 0233 - Export market 13
December 1983 Excel 84 Model Introduction (Body coloured bumpers, louvered bonnet, boot spoiler, 8 spoke road wheel option)
VIN 89 D 1402 - Domestic market 251
VIN 89 - 0246 - Export market 36
October 1984 Excel 85 Model Introduction (Revised wheelarch profile, front fog lamps, larger boot opening, 15" road wheel option, VDO instruments)
VIN 89 D 1653 - Domestic market 318
October 1985 Excel 86 Model Introduction (S.E. option, H.C. Engine, revised fascia & switchgear, adjustable steering column, new heater/air conditioning system)
VIN 89 D 1975 - Domestic market 244
VIN 89 - 0282 - Export market 50
October 1986 Excel 87 Model Introduction (S.A. option, Automatic gearbox, cruise control, central door locking)
VIN 89 D 2219 - Domestic market 113
VIN 89 - 0282 - Export market 33
March 1987 ( Commonised Engine Position, Cross drilled crank, engine mount legs, bell housing)
VIN 89 D 2332 - Domestic market 125
VIN 89 - 0365 - Export market 34
July 1987 (Revised Bodyshell Undertray, Rear body mounts, boot floor brace, revised fuel system)
VIN 89 D 2457 - Domestic market 276
VIN 89 - 0399 - Export market 28
October 1988 Excel 89 Model Introduction (Restyled bonnet, front & rear spoilers, road wheels & interior trim, air intake temperature control system)
VIN 89 D 2733 - Domestic market 248
VIN 89 - 0427 - Export market 17
August 1990 (New PAS Pump)
VIN 89 D 2981 - Domestic market 85
VIN 89 - 0444 - Export market (Unknown)
November 1990 Hethel 25th Anniversary Celebration Excel (Body colour metallic green/black [aka Marque Green], road wheel spokes body coloured, Clarion CDC 9300 six disc autochanger)
VIN 89 D 3066 - Domestic market (Unknown)
Where can I find an alternative part for ....?
Firstly - not everything on a Lotus is sourced from another manufacturer. However, our sister site, www.LotusPIG.org.uk is building a list of alternative parts which might have the answer to this question.